Find Parts

Search By Item Number Or Keyword
Search Manufacturers By Letter

Still Can't Find It?

If you're unable to locate an item please contact us directly.

Please have the following information ready:

  1. Firearm Manufacturer
  2. Firearm Model and Serial Number
  3. Gauge or Caliber of Firearm
  4. Part Description
  5. Any other pertinent information

Then please call our Sales Department toll free at:

866-NUMRICH

(866-686-7424)

Outside U.S.A.

845-679-2417

Office Hours:

Monday through Friday
8:00 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. EST

Forums

Forums Home > Gunsmithing > Remington 1100 12 ga. questions
Remington 1100 12 ga. questions
Replies for Remington 1100 12 ga. questions
Author Message
gunfixr23
Author Image
Joined: September 2011
Posts: 10
Location:
WICHITA, KS
Posted: November 16, 2011 11:43 PM

Got 2 of these in to work on from same person. Both were bought used from pawn shops, so owner doesn't know anything about their history. One is S/N 274***V and the other is S/N N625***V. Can anyone tell me the ages of these? Here's the weird thing. Owner says they have identical malfunctions. First, they stopped cycling the action. Then after a while, they stopped firing even the FIRST round. Owner took them in to a gunsmith for a cleaning, gunsmith supposedly cleaned them, gave them back to the customer telling him they cycled fine. Owner goes out to shoot them and NOTHING. No first shot, no cycling etc. Now they are in my lap to figure out. I've never worked on one of these before, but from searching the web, it looks like I need to check the O ring, gas piston seal, gas ports in the barrel, and disassemble and clean the action spring and tube. Take apart the bolt and look for anything obstructing the firing pin or breakage. Anything else I am missing? Would appreciate any advice from the experts here. Thanks
JEB
Author Image
Joined: January 1900
Posts: 367
Location:
PANAMA CITY, FL
Posted: November 17, 2011 12:16 AM
The 1100, is one of the easiest guns to work on. Its problems are usually basic, and very minor. i.e....its mechanic proof! he.ee.. If its not firing at all (unusual problem), gotta be a firing pin issue, or either the bolt is not locked up all the way. Also, watch out for this one, I have had them come in with similar problems where the customer changed his own gas 0 ring, with a hardware, or auto store, 0 ring. The 0 ring in the 1100, is unlike any other, and nothing SAE, etc. can replace it. An incorrect dia. 0 ring will not let the slide system seat up properly, and go far enough forwar to lock up the bolt, and you will get a no fire. Also, practice complete dissassembly a few times. It is so basic, you will amaze yourself. Make sure the two gas ports, on the underside of the barrel, in the mag tube lug, are cleaned out, and the two gas pistons gaps are 180 apart from each other on reassembly. And, its a fact, some 1100's will not cycle low power 2 3/4 " shells, but some will. If yours wont cycle low brass shells, take it up a notch with a littler higher power shells. Never, ever cut off recoil spring coils, or somebody ends up with a face full of metal! he.e..
bbean
Author Image
Joined: January 1900
Posts: 14
Location:
Windsor, OH
Posted: November 17, 2011 8:50 AM
1963- 1988 would be all i have listed for the model 1100 there is variations i dont have D.of M for those
Zeke
Author Image
Joined: August 2011
Posts: 3674
Location:
JAMESPORT, NY
Posted: November 17, 2011 9:53 AM
While you got them..pull the buttstock and clean the Action Spring tube..this seldom maintained tube collects all sorts od detrius that dampens bolt travel..both in length of travel and speed. I have found unburnt powder residue to shredded leaves in there often prevents cocking on the rearward stroke and bolt into battery on the forward stroke..The inside of the tube may be well rusted and a hone needs to be used to smooth out the rough spots and then a finer grit to polish...and only a dry film lubricate should be used.
gunfixr23
Author Image
Joined: September 2011
Posts: 10
Location:
WICHITA, KS
Posted: November 27, 2011 7:56 PM
Ok guys, got them both apart and here's what I found:
Gun #1 : Nothing obviously broken. Gas ports open, piston rings on correctly, look kind of original/rusty, but look like they would seat up. O-ring not nicked. Trigger group could use a good spraying out. Buffer on aft end of bolt not cracked, but kind of mashed along top area around 10:00 to 2:00 area. Firing pin & spring ok. Question about the firing pin. There is no protrusion when I flush up the aft end of the firing pin with the buffer. The forward end of the pin is still buried approx .05 inside the bolt. If I take a punch and push the firing pin in from the aft end all the way, I get maybe .04 protrusion max out the front end of the bolt. Is this normal? Does this gun require the momentum of the firing pin to overcome the spring force and fly all the way forward to strike the primer? Also, it seems from observation that the locking bolt has to be in a certain position or it blocks the firing pin internally from going forward to strike the primer. Is this correct? The hammer seems to have some slop in it and about a .10 gap between it and the end of the bolt after the trigger is pulled when viewed through the slot on the right hand side. I can't get the stock off because I can't get the nut off the action spring tube with the screwdrivers that I have. It's tight. I guess there is some special tool I need to get to get that off? One more thing. Feed latch fell out when I pulled out the trigger group. Is this normal? So, reassembled the gun, cycled the action, tried to pull the trigger and thought the safety was on. Nope, safety not on, bumped the bolt handle a little forward, trigger pulled. Sounds to me like the bolt is not going into battery due to a weak action spring, therefore gun won't fire. What do you think?

Gun #2 : Same problems as Gun #1 with one exception: the piston rings on this gun are warped/wavy along with being rusty. I can't see any way that this could have happened through use. The end gap is widened up, the ends don't even like up. There is no way this could ever take any pressure to cycle the action, even if they weren't rusty too.

I'm thinking action springs for both guns and new piston rings for at least the one gun. What about buffers? Could they have anything to contribute to these problems? Would appreciate your advice. These are my first shotguns and I'm really new at this. thanks
Zeke
Author Image
Joined: August 2011
Posts: 3674
Location:
JAMESPORT, NY
Posted: November 28, 2011 6:32 PM
If your going to make a habit of working the Remington Shotguns, then an investment in a copy ofJerry Kuhnhausen's "The Remington Shotguns....M870 and M1100/M11-87 A Shop manual..It has it all on these plus the guns that led to them..words.pictures,tools techniques etc. I believe that this is a must because, while the model designation remains the same, the date of manufacture makes one a bit different than another one. The 870 came to life in 1950 and is still in production..the 1100 in 1963.and the number made is great as of 1991 the 870 has 3,750,000 brothers and sisters and the 100 has 3,450,000 close kin..but while the name is the same..there have been many engineering changes since day one and to tell you that it is OK to do it a certain way may be the worse advice you can get..In a nutshell...you need to know its birthday to get it done the EZ way. there are date codes and serial number prefixes and post fixes.. to tell you what you have.The book lists this: M1100/M11-87firing pin interupter/ retractor system and protrusion checks and list 7 lengthy checks and finishes with this note(a summary) UPDATE NOTE when shotguns are brought in for repair or service always use the latest style parts...What Ican add is this..besides the book..tghe Remington man here is LeeRoy Wisner(retired but talkitive) You can contact him thru his son Jim at www.wisnersinc.com
Our members have made a total of 238328 posts
We have 467955 registered members
The newest member is Andrew983633
FORUM RULES
You are not logged in.
You cannot post replies