I'm researching for a specific example of this, but until then, I have a suggestion you might not like...the problem might just be you - or rather, your muscles and their memory. I've got the exact same gun and it too started acting up after being cleaned for the first time in years. Here's what I determined:
After X number of years, the slide action on these guns reaches a certain level of stiffness which we get used to. Cleaning changes this; specifically, the middle part of the stroke is a LOT easier than what we're used to. However, getting the action all the way back and then all the way into battery still takes as much force as it always did. My arm, presented with a smooth, light stroke, quickly developed a habit of short-stroking the gun, usually resulting in it not going into battery, resulting in rythmic misfires.
The first thing I'd suggest is to go out and fire the gun slow-fire, being brisk and _firm_ and see what happens. Make certain your getting a complete stroke and actually going into battery.
And switch ammo! ;) If I took your question 100% literally, about the _only_ thing it could be is ammo. (you say it snaps and you get good firing pin impressions...if this is true even for the rounds that didn't go 'bang', well...once that rim gets mashed, it doesn't care who, what or why mashed it, it goes boom. Usually.)
Numrich Archiver
Joined: February 2010
Posted: July 24, 2004 08:41 AM
Duke,
I'm researching for a specific example of this, but until then, I have a suggestion you might not like...the problem might just be you - or rather, your muscles and their memory. I've got the exact same gun and it too started acting up after being cleaned for the first time in years. Here's what I determined:
After X number of years, the slide action on these guns reaches a certain level of stiffness which we get used to. Cleaning changes this; specifically, the middle part of the stroke is a LOT easier than what we're used to. However, getting the action all the way back and then all the way into battery still takes as much force as it always did. My arm, presented with a smooth, light stroke, quickly developed a habit of short-stroking the gun, usually resulting in it not going into battery, resulting in rythmic misfires.
The first thing I'd suggest is to go out and fire the gun slow-fire, being brisk and _firm_ and see what happens. Make certain your getting a complete stroke and actually going into battery.
And switch ammo! ;) If I took your question 100% literally, about the _only_ thing it could be is ammo. (you say it snaps and you get good firing pin impressions...if this is true even for the rounds that didn't go 'bang', well...once that rim gets mashed, it doesn't care who, what or why mashed it, it goes boom. Usually.)
Ah, you did switch ammo, I missed that, sorry. (Your method of typing is kind of hard to read.)
Anyway, you should also compare a fired shell and a misfire side by side - if the misfired one has a lighter impression, you could have a headspace problem, in which case you need to find somebody who's worked these guns or has Dunlap taps 41 and 42. FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY, here's three things you might want to hire someone to look at:
Action bar retention in the forend: If the wood is starting to wallow out, you won't consistently pull the bolt into battery.
Locking bar adjustment: You may have it too lose or too tight. The screw that holds it in needs to be tightened until the bar is tight in the reciever, than backed out "a wee bit".
Barrel retaining screw bushing: this is oblong so it can be rotated to adjust headspace. It might have moved on you, or if it was removed, you quite probably didn't get it back in in the same orientation it had originally.
Hope that helps,
Robert
Numrich Archiver
Joined: February 2010
Posted: July 24, 2004 10:36 AM
Ah, you did switch ammo, I missed that, sorry. (Your method of typing is kind of hard to read.)
Anyway, you should also compare a fired shell and a misfire side by side - if the misfired one has a lighter impression, you could have a headspace problem, in which case you need to find somebody who's worked these guns or has Dunlap taps 41 and 42. FOR INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY, here's three things you might want to hire someone to look at:
Action bar retention in the forend: If the wood is starting to wallow out, you won't consistently pull the bolt into battery.
Locking bar adjustment: You may have it too lose or too tight. The screw that holds it in needs to be tightened until the bar is tight in the reciever, than backed out "a wee bit".
Barrel retaining screw bushing: this is oblong so it can be rotated to adjust headspace. It might have moved on you, or if it was removed, you quite probably didn't get it back in in the same orientation it had originally.
Another possibility that I have encountered is the firing pin is damaged or worn and makes a nice dent torwad the center of the shell base but not quite enough on the rim where the priming compound is. Check the mark and make sure it is equally indented all the way across.
Numrich Archiver
Joined: February 2010
Posted: July 24, 2004 11:02 AM
Another possibility that I have encountered is the firing pin is damaged or worn and makes a nice dent torwad the center of the shell base but not quite enough on the rim where the priming compound is. Check the mark and make sure it is equally indented all the way across.
There has been a problem,in the past, with Remington Standard velocity ammo with the liquid primer distribution. In some rounds there is only a partial distribution that leaves gaps in the primer. Full hit, failure to fire incidents have been as high as 25% in some lots. A malfunction of the priming process of this nature is not unique to Rem. One thing to do is to take half the rounds and rotate them to a different FP impact point to see if they then fire. The remaining rounds should then have the bullets pulled and the primeing area inspected visually for defects. You may be chasing the wrong Goblin by just playing with the firearm.
Numrich Archiver
Joined: February 2010
Posted: July 24, 2004 01:02 PM
There has been a problem,in the past, with Remington Standard velocity ammo with the liquid primer distribution. In some rounds there is only a partial distribution that leaves gaps in the primer. Full hit, failure to fire incidents have been as high as 25% in some lots. A malfunction of the priming process of this nature is not unique to Rem. One thing to do is to take half the rounds and rotate them to a different FP impact point to see if they then fire. The remaining rounds should then have the bullets pulled and the primeing area inspected visually for defects. You may be chasing the wrong Goblin by just playing with the firearm.
Thanks Robert,Gary And U.Sorry About My typing Skills.The Firing Pin Hits Good On The First Two Shells But Then The Next One Very Small.On The Action Bar The Wood Is Wallowed Out Some.I Will Check The Locking Bar Adjustment And The Barrel Retaining Screw.And Try A Different Brand Of Ammo.Thanks For The Info.
Duke
Numrich Archiver
Joined: February 2010
Posted: July 24, 2004 06:40 PM
Thanks Robert,Gary And U.Sorry About My typing Skills.The Firing Pin Hits Good On The First Two Shells But Then The Next One Very Small.On The Action Bar The Wood Is Wallowed Out Some.I Will Check The Locking Bar Adjustment And The Barrel Retaining Screw.And Try A Different Brand Of Ammo.Thanks For The Info.
