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The Revelation Model 135 is a Springfield model 187...The bumper inserts over the outside edge of the barrel and is used to guide the nose of the ammo into the chamber. To do it properly, the barrel is normally pulled to insure that the channel that the bumper nose rides in is clear of broken parts and gunk...if it is clear..I have snapped one into place..if it doesn't want to snap in..then try to clear the orifice
i apreciate your help but im just learning about rifles and dont really follow what your saying and i cant find pics of how its supposed to look
Look to the left hand border of this page...take note of the statement" Search Manufacturers by Letter" point to and click the letter S when the next page comes up...on that menu, scroll to the listing titled Savage/Stevens/Springfield/Fox(this is all the same company and they made the gun you have for Western Auto chain stores who used the trade name of Revelation) Click the Savage/Stevens/Springfield/Fox line....when the next page comes up, this will be a list of all the guns that Savage made over the years..Your model is on it....scroll down to Model 187 Series A...click it...the page that comes up is the Illustrated Parts breakdown of your gun along with a parts list..your "bumper" is the -22. Take note that there is a solid line drawn off the part and it your trace it....it goes into the ejection port of the reciever,indicating the location of the bumper in the assembled firearm. If you look intot the ejection port and look at the 12 o'clock position on the rear face of the barrel...directly above the chamber...there is a small rectangular slot milled into the top of the barrel...the extended single leg of the bumper goes into that slot...take note that all of the old bumper MUST be removed along with ny trash that may have collected in that slot. Take note of the orientation of the -22 in the schematic....that is the proper position of the part....That loop end points to the rear and its shape guides...or....bumps the nose of the cartridge in such a manner...as it feeds from the magaine as to position it...directionally.correct...to enter the chamber..However......you may need to pull the barrel to install the bumper...take note of the 2 pins indicated in the schematic as the -20...to pull the barrel...you must drive out these pins(after the rifle has been disassembled)..the drive out from l to r...support the barrel and action and use a punch to drive out the pins...once they are out...the barrel is pressed into the reciever..I would use an oil called KROIL to lube the joint...let it soak...apply the oil several times....make up a set of barrel blocks.. a matched pair of oak blocks 3'x1.5"x1.5" will do...place a strip of cardboard between the two blocks as they are matched together...use clamps...and now bore a hole straight thru the seam and the cardboard that is the same OD as the barrel or slightly smaller..once you remove the cardboard and snap these around the barrel(degreased surface) and clamp the assy in your bench vise....VERY FIRMLY....in such a manner as to let access the external joint between the baqrrel and reciever...then use a brass,bronze or nylon square punch(bar) to gain purchase on the reciever edge and using a hammer tap the other end of the bar to drive the reciver from the barrel...hint.....when you drive out the cross pins,,you should see some half moon grooves in the barrel shank and the reciever...take a rattail jewelers file and make sure there are no burrs or peened up areas...when you reassemble...clean is the optimum word.....place the muzzle of the barrel on a hardwood board on your shop floor...put the parts in place....you can use greas e to position the bumper.....and hand start the reciever back onto the barrel shank...use a soft hammer..like a plastic or rawhide mallet to tap the barrel...bumper and reciever back to gether...take care to get the clock position right as the cross pin holes must realign........Good Luck........