The stock,cleaning rod,bottom receiver plate and the barrel have the same serial numbers. The bolt is the only thing different.
It has a chilean symbol on the left side of the stock near the cheek with the letters M.E stamped under the crest.
Duetsche-Waffen was the manufacturer.
It has a small triangle with a small center dot inside on the left side bottom of the front sight.
On the bottom of the stock just up from the sling swivel is the letter C and then a small round symbol stamped about 4" behind the trigger guard with letters inside that looks like the letters Ne with a russian type sycle (spelling ?) looking script on the N lying above the e.
Thanks
Numrich Archiver
Joined: February 2010
Posted: February 10, 2009 10:28 PM
The stock,cleaning rod,bottom receiver plate and the barrel have the same serial numbers. The bolt is the only thing different.
It has a chilean symbol on the left side of the stock near the cheek with the letters M.E stamped under the crest.
Duetsche-Waffen was the manufacturer.
It has a small triangle with a small center dot inside on the left side bottom of the front sight.
On the bottom of the stock just up from the sling swivel is the letter C and then a small round symbol stamped about 4" behind the trigger guard with letters inside that looks like the letters Ne with a russian type sycle (spelling ?) looking script on the N lying above the e.
Not a very valuable piece. My advise is to just use it. Be careful of its diet as it is not made for the higher pressures of modern ammunition. It should do exceptionally well with lighter weight of bullets and lower published velocities. I have discharged many model 95s and they have proven to be very accurate with the ammunition they were designed for.
Numrich Archiver
Joined: February 2010
Posted: February 10, 2009 11:51 PM
Not a very valuable piece. My advise is to just use it. Be careful of its diet as it is not made for the higher pressures of modern ammunition. It should do exceptionally well with lighter weight of bullets and lower published velocities. I have discharged many model 95s and they have proven to be very accurate with the ammunition they were designed for.
The mismatched serial numbers from the reciever to the bolt,they should be the same or the bolt stub should match the last 3 or 4 numbers of the reciever number..if not the bolt is a substitute and bolts are NOT drop-in interchangable and headspace..at a minimum must be verified..However, from a personal standpoint, with SRM, I prefer to not only headspace but check the bolt lugs for contact to the reciever ways..at least a 70% contact is my minimum...YOU can do this by cleaning the bolt and the lug area recess in the reciever to "pristine" apply ink..Dykem or a magic marker to the rear of the bolt lugs..then apply a light coating of a barrel lapping compound..like J-B Bore Paste to the same area insert the bolt and using a cleaning rod thru the muzzle..apply pressure..it doesn't require much..then crank the bolt handle up and down a dozen times or so while maintaining the rearward pressure on the bolt the contact will buff away the ink and show you what is actually bearing..However this does NOT mean that is the contact you have with a cartridge in place the action must still not close on a No-Go gauge! The amount of shiny area on the bolt lugs tells you actually how much of the bolt is really involved in the lock up..it should be equal across both lugs....
Numrich Archiver
Joined: February 2010
Posted: February 11, 2009 10:55 AM
The mismatched serial numbers from the reciever to the bolt,they should be the same or the bolt stub should match the last 3 or 4 numbers of the reciever number..if not the bolt is a substitute and bolts are NOT drop-in interchangable and headspace..at a minimum must be verified..However, from a personal standpoint, with SRM, I prefer to not only headspace but check the bolt lugs for contact to the reciever ways..at least a 70% contact is my minimum...YOU can do this by cleaning the bolt and the lug area recess in the reciever to "pristine" apply ink..Dykem or a magic marker to the rear of the bolt lugs..then apply a light coating of a barrel lapping compound..like J-B Bore Paste to the same area insert the bolt and using a cleaning rod thru the muzzle..apply pressure..it doesn't require much..then crank the bolt handle up and down a dozen times or so while maintaining the rearward pressure on the bolt the contact will buff away the ink and show you what is actually bearing..However this does NOT mean that is the contact you have with a cartridge in place the action must still not close on a No-Go gauge! The amount of shiny area on the bolt lugs tells you actually how much of the bolt is really involved in the lock up..it should be equal across both lugs....
Mel, yes, seems the British were not happy with the way the war was going, they had better luck stopping the shipment of rifles to the farmers than they had stopping the farmers after they were armed (with Mausers), the rifles that were manufactured, stamped 'OVS' and ready to ship were redistributed to other countries, most were in South American, and yes the rifle is special even without all matching parts, 'parts that are not correct to that rifle'.
We had our problem with the Mauser in Cuba, we had the Springfield 30/40 Krag, the next war they had the Mauser (still) and we finally came up with the Enfield M1917, on second thought I believe we got that one from the British.
F. Guffey
Numrich Archiver
Joined: February 2010
Posted: February 12, 2009 02:05 PM
Mel, yes, seems the British were not happy with the way the war was going, they had better luck stopping the shipment of rifles to the farmers than they had stopping the farmers after they were armed (with Mausers), the rifles that were manufactured, stamped 'OVS' and ready to ship were redistributed to other countries, most were in South American, and yes the rifle is special even without all matching parts, 'parts that are not correct to that rifle'.
We had our problem with the Mauser in Cuba, we had the Springfield 30/40 Krag, the next war they had the Mauser (still) and we finally came up with the Enfield M1917, on second thought I believe we got that one from the British.
The original Springfield 'O3 was produced under license from Mauser. We made more Enfield patterns during WW1, but did use a German designed rifle (with mods) up through WW2.
Numrich Archiver
Joined: February 2010
Posted: February 12, 2009 04:28 PM
The original Springfield 'O3 was produced under license from Mauser. We made more Enfield patterns during WW1, but did use a German designed rifle (with mods) up through WW2.
