My guess is that you may be using reloads that one did not get resized proberly, OR there is debri or rust in the chamber.
Since the safety will not move, that is indicative to me that the hammer has fallen, & either has fired the round unbeknownst to you, or the primer did not detonate the charge.
Since that gun is prone to having the gas piston rust up, thereby creating resistance to the bolt closing /opening, it is hard to tell if your problem is either in the chamber or the gas pistion.
Point the firearm pointing in a safe direction & treat it as if it is LOADED. Or take a ramrod (not patch) & run it down the bore until it touches either the nose of the bullet or goes inside a fired case. This way you can mark the ramrod & lay it alongside the barrel & determine if it is indeed loaded.
About your only option is to place a block of wood against the protruding operating handle & briskly tap it rearward. Note that the handle itself is composed of the sheet metal arms that is bent out with a thicker block of steel silversoldered onto the bent over bar. I have seen this lower block broken off because of what you will have to do. You might however spray a light oil down the barrel & in the forearm trying to reach the gas system & let it set for a few days.
Numrich Archiver
Joined: February 2010
Posted: December 7, 2004 10:51 AM
My guess is that you may be using reloads that one did not get resized proberly, OR there is debri or rust in the chamber.
Since the safety will not move, that is indicative to me that the hammer has fallen, & either has fired the round unbeknownst to you, or the primer did not detonate the charge.
Since that gun is prone to having the gas piston rust up, thereby creating resistance to the bolt closing /opening, it is hard to tell if your problem is either in the chamber or the gas pistion.
Point the firearm pointing in a safe direction & treat it as if it is LOADED. Or take a ramrod (not patch) & run it down the bore until it touches either the nose of the bullet or goes inside a fired case. This way you can mark the ramrod & lay it alongside the barrel & determine if it is indeed loaded.
About your only option is to place a block of wood against the protruding operating handle & briskly tap it rearward. Note that the handle itself is composed of the sheet metal arms that is bent out with a thicker block of steel silversoldered onto the bent over bar. I have seen this lower block broken off because of what you will have to do. You might however spray a light oil down the barrel & in the forearm trying to reach the gas system & let it set for a few days.
One of the Winchester Auto's had a re-call on it. I remember it was in the 70's or early 80's, and dont remember the Model #. Dont know what the problem was either. Get ahold of them, even if that is not the problem. Denny
Numrich Archiver
Joined: February 2010
Posted: December 7, 2004 03:55 PM
One of the Winchester Auto's had a re-call on it. I remember it was in the 70's or early 80's, and dont remember the Model #. Dont know what the problem was either. Get ahold of them, even if that is not the problem. Denny
Denny, the "Recall" you may be refering to was in essence just a product warning to the warranty stations & gunsmiths. This would have no relationship to the stuck bolt situation.
MODEL 100 TRIGGER LOCK - The model 100 originally had a trigger lock, but in 1963 the factory decided that it caused more problems than good. Because of these problems, they discontinued its use and recommended that these parts be removed from all existing rifles when they later came in for other gunsmithing repairs.
The only RECALL was the M 100 firing pin recall of about 1992 or so.
Numrich Archiver
Joined: February 2010
Posted: December 7, 2004 04:04 PM
Denny, the "Recall" you may be refering to was in essence just a product warning to the warranty stations & gunsmiths. This would have no relationship to the stuck bolt situation.
MODEL 100 TRIGGER LOCK - The model 100 originally had a trigger lock, but in 1963 the factory decided that it caused more problems than good. Because of these problems, they discontinued its use and recommended that these parts be removed from all existing rifles when they later came in for other gunsmithing repairs.
The only RECALL was the M 100 firing pin recall of about 1992 or so.
Thanks Gunacologist and others for the advice and recommendations to free the bolt. Since I only use store bought Win ammo and have not had any stickiness before with the action of the operating handle, I would suspect that chamber corrosion may be the culprit. I will attempt to free the bolt using the block of wood as described. I will follow-up with a posting and the results. Thanks again Gun for the excellent and knowledgeable advice!
Numrich Archiver
Joined: February 2010
Posted: December 7, 2004 09:38 PM
Thanks Gunacologist and others for the advice and recommendations to free the bolt. Since I only use store bought Win ammo and have not had any stickiness before with the action of the operating handle, I would suspect that chamber corrosion may be the culprit. I will attempt to free the bolt using the block of wood as described. I will follow-up with a posting and the results. Thanks again Gun for the excellent and knowledgeable advice!
I'm trying to find take-apart instructions for the Winchester Model 100. I recently aquired one in excellent mechanical shape, and cant seeme to free the barrel/reciever assy and trigger assembly from the stock so I can repair the stock. I searched Gunparts and Numrich, and other sites and no avail. DOes anyone have a link? Thanks
Numrich Archiver
Joined: February 2010
Posted: January 4, 2005 05:25 PM
I'm trying to find take-apart instructions for the Winchester Model 100. I recently aquired one in excellent mechanical shape, and cant seeme to free the barrel/reciever assy and trigger assembly from the stock so I can repair the stock. I searched Gunparts and Numrich, and other sites and no avail. DOes anyone have a link? Thanks
Keith, The NRA Guide to Rifles and Shotguns, Firearms Assebly 3 has the complete takedown instructions. Available from the NRA on line or from your local library.
Numrich Archiver
Joined: February 2010
Posted: January 4, 2005 06:39 PM
Keith, The NRA Guide to Rifles and Shotguns, Firearms Assebly 3 has the complete takedown instructions. Available from the NRA on line or from your local library.
If someone tryed to take it apart by unscrewing the rear guard screw and bent the guard rails the hammer could be under the bolt. You can get inside through the mag well and cock the hammer. I've seen it many times.
Numrich Archiver
Joined: February 2010
Posted: January 17, 2005 08:43 AM
If someone tryed to take it apart by unscrewing the rear guard screw and bent the guard rails the hammer could be under the bolt. You can get inside through the mag well and cock the hammer. I've seen it many times.
